My 500-mile journey to the end of the world

Notes and photos as I make my way on foot from St-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Santiago de Compostela, and on to Finisterre

32

days
traveled

1,190,000

steps taken

558

miles covered

27

bocadillos eaten

ultreia et suseia! let’s go further, let’s go higher.

— traditional call-and-response among those walking the Camino de Santiago, first described in the Codex Calixtinus, the 12th-century anthology and guidebook for pilgrims

songs that keep me going

Dispatches from the trail

Day 32: The end of the earth / The return of Manolo, pt 2

Muxía to Finisterre / 23 miles Walking around the point to see waves crashing on the giant rocks beneath the old church and lighthouse Climbing up on the rocks to soak in the view and the moment, until the wind nearly knocked me over and I climbed back to the path Finding Muxía’s “Km 0,000″…

Day 31: Ocean in view, oh the joy

O Logoso to Muxía / 19 miles Seeing “moderate weather warnings” for wind and rain, but low likelihood of thunderstorms, so setting out before dawn while some older pilgrims were looking for the bus schedule Stopping 1.5km in, already wet with rain, to do a weather radar check and eat a second breakfast A very…

Day 30: Windy, wet, delightful

Vilaserío to O Logoso / 15.6 miles Thinking the weather couldn’t be worse than yesterday and getting even more hopeful when the first ten minutes were dry! Feeling raindrops on Minute 11 and thinking “this is fine” Walking through a storm that had rain hitting me at a 45 degree angle because the wind was…

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