Santiago de Compostela to Vilaserío, 22 miles
- Early morning departure from Santiago, including a visit to the empty Plaza del Obradoiro and a gorgeous view of the moonlit Cathedral
- The best breakfast of the Camino at the Cafe Tertulia, where 5 euros and 80 cents gets you two fried eggs, two slices of bacon, one pancake, two pieces of toast and a cafe con leche
- Walking through neighborhoods past kids heading to school and parents dropping their toddlers off at daycare
- Reaching the trailhead to the coast and leaving Santiago behind
- Turning around to watch the sunrise over the city skyline behind me, seeing the Cathedral’s towers illuminated in the glow
- Walking through piles of leaves and through tiny towns all morning, seeing just a few pilgrims along the way
- Meeting a fellow peregrina on her gap year between high school and college, feeling so inspired by her independence and courage to hike on her own at her age
- Stumbling across the beautiful town of Puente Maceira, named for the centuries-old stone bridge that crossed a river over gentle rapids
- Arriving in Negreira just as the rain began, and attempting to wait out the weather over a chicken sandwich and Radler
- Accepting that the rain wasn’t going anywhere and heading out for another 13km
- Talking on the phone with Ma’Mai as I walked through the trees
- Getting blown from one side of the path to the other as the wind picked up and the trees disappeared
- Walking in two buckets of water for shoes for the final 2 hours
- Arriving absolutely soaked in Vilaserío, marking the beginning of a weeklong period where I would always be at least a little bit wet









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