Allison Cowie

Bercianos to Puente Villarente / 20.9 miles

I felt the best I’ve felt any day walking this stretch. I found an easy rhythm after my breakfast stop, and felt like I could continue all day… when I got close to my destination, and saw a sign saying only 12 more kms to Leon, I really thought about continuing. But, I had a private room booked in Puente Villarente, and I was not about to give that luxury up!

The walk today was delightful in large part due to the trees that had been thoughtfully planted on the southern side of the path. They created small pockets of shade every five meters, making the walk so much more pleasant than the long stretches without any cover. I listened to my Camino playlist, and stopped every few miles for a five minute break on one of the benches that lined the trail. (These benches made a big difference for my legs and my mood. I wouldn’t have stopped as frequently if they hadn’t been there, and the rest breaks made a big difference in my stamina. I hope I see more benches farther west.)

Today was also a great day for eating. For breakfast I ate the most delicious tortilla de patata sandwich: yes, a sandwich with tortilla de patata as the bread. It was stuffed with ham, cheese, tomato and lettuce, and it was divine. For lunch I brought my tomato toast from breakfast and added some cheese slices I bought at a deli. I ate that beneath the shade of a large tree overlooking a quiet river… by far the most picturesque meal I have experienced on the trail so far.