Allison Cowie

Calzadilla de la Cueza to Bercianos / 21.21 miles

Today was somewhat of a slog that ended on a high note at exactly 21.21 miles, aka my favorite number on repeat. I crossed the official halfway point of the Camino Frances in Sahagun, though I did not stop to collect my “halfway” certificate. (I didn’t know such a certificate existed until a fellow pilgrim told me about his at the albergue that evening, but even if I had known about it I doubt I would have picked one up. For me, it’s the whole way or bust.)

Throughout the morning, I walked past many wine cellars (“bodegas”) built into the hillside. They reminded me of Laura Ingalls living On the Banks of Plum Creek. (I hear they also look like Hobbit homes, but as a foreigner to Lord of the Rings, I cannot confirm.)

I took a few wrong turns today that added an additional half mile or so to my total distance, which I was particularly regretting from miles 18-21. After Sahagun, I had over six miles of quiet, hot emptiness to walk through, which would have been more beautiful had I felt fresher. But I carried on past corn fields and eventually trudged up the (minor) hill to my Bercianos albergue, where I indulged in a 4 euro washing machine and ate a massive croissant, potato chips and a radler for a 4:30pm lunch, followed by a hamburger and a salad for dinner.

Biggest highlight of the day: meeting a three-generation family from New Zealand! I spoke with the patriarch, who was there with his wife, three of four sons, two daughters-in-law and two toddler grandchildren being pushed in jogging strollers. Super, super impressive.

Second biggest highlight: eating “the best tortilla de patata on the Camino”, which absolutely lived up to the hype. The accompanying tomato slices were also out of this world.